Friday 20-22 June 2025
What started as a larger party soon reduced to an adventurous trio of women, after a few last-minute withdrawals. With spirits high and packs ready, we set off on the Paparoa Track with a change in plan due to the weather forecast.
Moonlight Track to Moonlight Tops Hut
The weather greeted us with drizzle that would later develop into cold temperatures, heavy rain, occasional hail, and a biting wind. Given the conditions on the tops, we made the sensible decision to ascend via the Moonlight Track (4.5hrs), offering a more sheltered route compared to the exposed main track.
The track was full of history with some old hut sites and remains of the gold mining era. The track itself is relatively easy with a steady gradient; the creek crossings were running a little high—but all safely navigable. As we gained elevation, the rain intensified and the wind grew sharper, chilling us to the bone.
We arrived at Moonlight Tops Hut soaked through and cold, but happy to be at the hut. We were the first part to arrive so quickly shifted into action: fire lit, hot water on the boil, and dry clothes donned. When two other groups arrived later, they were visibly grateful for the warmth and comfort we had waiting.
Moonlight Tops Hut to Pororari Hut
We woke to clear sunny skies, with the cold wind still lingering but manageable. The reward was immediate: stunning views across the majestic Paparoa ranges. The dramatic contrast to the previous day made for an unforgettable traverse allowing views out to the sea, inland to the mountains and across the escarpment.
At Pororari Hut we were treated to a beautiful sunset. As night fell, the bush came alive with weka, ruru, and kiwi calls. The night sky treated us to incredible stargazing with the Milky Way stretching brilliantly above the hut.
Pororari Hut to Punakaiki
Early into our descent, we were delighted to hear kākā calling through the forest. The final day followed the Pororari River through beautiful West Coast bush, on a gentle downhill gradient perfect for reflecting on the trip.
We emerged at Punakaiki tired but happy—and of course, finished the journey in true trampers’ style: with a well-earned bowl of hot chips at the Punakaiki Tavern.
Vicky Youngman (Member)
